This Diwali sweet traditionally used rainwater for fermentation. Anarsa is an Indian sweet dish made during Diwali and Maha Shivratri all over the country. Its preparation takes days and requires patience and practice to perfect the dish. Anarsa is crisp on the outside, soft on the inside, and full of flavors. It is not only a sweet but a culture in itself. Let’s dive into this delicious treat.
Origins
The word ‘anarsa’ comes from the Sanskrit word ‘anarasha’, meaning ‘food that never rottens or decays. Each state of India has its own version of the sweet dish with little variations. It is called andarsey in the Rohilkhand region of Uttar Pradesh, adhirasam in Tamil Nadu, kajjaya in Karnataka, anarase in Maharashtra, ariselu in Andhra, airsa in Chhattisgarh, arsa in Garhwal, and arisa pitha in Odisha. Some of the recipes from South use coconut in the preparation, while many others include spices like pepper and cardamom to further enhance the taste of the dish.
Indian celebrity chef Ranveer Brar gives two origins of anarsa, which can be traced to Lord Shiva and the ancient city of Gaya. This dish is often prepared during Maha Shivratri as an offering to the god. It is said that Lord Shiva loved this sweet dish, and whenever Goddess Parvati wanted to please him, she would cook anarsa. Hence, in most of the Indian festivals dedicated to Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati, like Haryali Teej, anarse is definitely cooked.
Another story relates anarsa to the Pind Daan ceremony. The legends believe that in the ancient city of Gaya, Lord Vishnu blesses the soul with liberation. After the ceremony, the relatives are required to take some food back. Obviously, the dish needs to be of such a nature that it would not rot. This led to the birth of anarsa.
Preparation
Anarsa is made from rice flour, powdered jaggery or sugar, ghee, and sesame or poppy seeds. The rice flour and deep-frying allow the food to last for a long time without decaying.
Traditionally, the sweet dish takes around 5 days to prepare. Raw rice is first soaked for three days to ferment it. Remember to clean the rice thoroughly before soaking it else the impurities would alter the taste of anarsa. Also, change the water every day to prevent the rice from turning sour. Drain the water after three days and spread it on a cotton cloth to let it dry until damp. Grind the rice into flour and mix it with powdered jaggery or sugar to create a soft dough. Carefully remove the lumps of jaggery while kneading the dough. Cover the dough and let it sit for 2 days to allow fermentation and thorough absorption of flavours. Then, shape the dough into flat discs, cover them in poppy or sesame seeds, and deep fry them in ghee until golden.
Tarana Husain Khan, a food historian, mentions that conventionally, rice flour should be kneaded in rainwater for better fermentation. The bicarbonates helped the dough to rise naturally and make it extra spongy. Now, most of the generational halwais use soda to cook the dish, as rainwaters are now dirty. Now the recipe of anarsa has changed to either soaking the rice for a few hours or directly using rice flour to prepare them instantly within a few hours.
Cultural Significance and Legacy
In Maharashtra, anarsa is an important part of the Maharashtrian faral, a traditional platter of sweet and savory dishes, prepared during Diwali. It is offered to Goddess Lakshmi as naivedya. In Bihar, anarsa is prepared during Chhath Puja and Diwali, and also in weddings and celebrations. Some tribal and rural communities believe the dish symbolizes prosperity and gratitude after the harvest season.
Making anarsa is not a hurried process; it needs patience and care. It brings members of the family together to reminisce about the older stories and lore related to the memories of anarsa. The sweet dish is not only a food but a part of Indian heritage that we have inherited over the years.
